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Nice - Getting Around

General Transport

Nice is an ideal walking city. It does, however, have a good public transportation system as well. There is some current disruption due to the construction of the new tramway, due to open in 2006. Buses connect all parts of the city. You can buy tickets on board the buses. A single ticket is €1.30 and a SunPass one day ticket is €4. You can find information about routes on www.lignedazur.com. Taxis are expensive, but the main ranks are at the following locations:

  • Esplanade Masséna
  • Promenade des Anglais
  • Place Garibaldi
  • Gare SNCF
  • Rue Hôtel-des-Postes
  • Acropolis

Alternatively, if you want to see more than just the beach and the old town, you could hire a bike, though at roughly €26 a day it’s also expensive.

Nice-Côte d'Azur Airport

The Nice-Côte d'Azur Airport is the second largest in France. More than 8 million passengers travel through each year (of which 49% are from overseas) and it represents an ideal gateway to the South of Europe. 45 airlines make 82 direct connections to 27 countries worldwide and operate a large number of daily flights to and from 30 other French cities. Ligne D'Azur have a No. 23 bus that departs from terminal 1 every 30 minutes between 06.00 and 21.00 to the centre of Nice. There is also a No. 98 bus that departs from both terminals. It runs during the same period and goes to Nice bus station. A single fare on both buses is €1.30. There are also various companies that can provide transfers from or to the airport, but services must be reserved in advance for a minimum of 2 persons. There are taxis outside both terminals. A typical fare into Nice during the day will be €20-25. During the night it will be €23-28.

Eating & Drinking

In spite of its ritzy image, Nice offers surprisingly varied opportunities for inexpensive eating, since Niçoise cooking is the product of resourceful chefs who learned to deal with meager harvests and is dominated by the one food source that is plentiful: olives and olive oil. In the old town a pleasing jumble of open-air cafes and intimate restaurants serve local specialties like salade niçoise, ravioli, plates of grilled sardines, farcies (stuffed vegetables) or fried zucchini blossoms. For those who would like something appetising to munch while on the move, a good option can pissaladiere: a Niçoise pizza of caramelized onions, anchovies and olives.
An authentic version of Nice’s signature dish, salad Niçoise, can be harder to find. Many local gourmets will advise you that the real thing no longer exists. It should be made from a base of raw baby artichoke hearts or raw broad beans, along with green peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, garlic, basil, hard-boiled eggs, local black olives and olive oil. Contrary to what most Anglophile guidebooks or cookbooks tell you, it never includes string beans, potatoes, lettuce or Chicken of the Sea. The real reason for its disappearance is said to be the fact that peeling and slicing raw artichokes was too time consuming for many restaurant kitchens.
Another famous – or perhaps infamous – Nice speciality for those with especially hardy palates is stockfish, a local preparation of dried cod that takes one full week of preparation followed by hours of cooking time. It arrives at your table as an innocuous-looking saucer filled with chunks of fish and olives aswim in a red, tomato-based stew. But it smells incredibly strong. People are reputed to hold their noses when eating it, but the delicious taste makes it well worth while.

Text written by David Cunningham, author of CloudWorld and CloudWorld At War